| Last week I bought a new Bridge camera - a Sony - and so far I'm very pleased with it. I soon set out to take photographs of Norwich and set up a new web site for my photographs of Norfolk - many of which will be from North Norfolk. Today returned to Cromer where the light was excellent with clear blue skies. That meant a walk through the town, a sandwich in one of the many local cafes and then a general look round before taking the coastal path back to our apartment in Overstrand Road. Late afternoon we decided to walk in the other direction and followed the coast road to Overstrand and then took a left just after the church and through a picturesque road down the clifftop and then quite a difficult walk alongside Cromer Golf Club on one side and the crumbling cliffs on the other. Many of the houses and bungalows alongside the clifftop have wonderfully manicured gardens. But there is evidence that the cliffs are eroding at an alarming rate. There are a few photographs of our walks above but more in the photograph section of this web site. |
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Thought I would post the above photo of Cromer Pier taken on February 21st, 2017, just before the batteries on the camera ran out - which will teach me to charge it before I set off.
At the end of January made another overnight visit to Cromer. Sunday January 29th threatened afternoon rain but first we had a sunny morning and made the most of it. Out reasonably early for a walk along the front and down the pier and then along Holt Road. Had a substantial lunch at the Garden Street Grill. Another fleeting visit came to an end all too soon.
Managed to take a few photographs in the sunshine which shows a number of people on the beach before the rains came. The lifeboat was out on exercise and I made a mental note to visit both the RNLI and Henry Blogg Museums in the near future. I have just finished reading the Henry Blogg biography "Henry Blogg of Cromer - The Greatest of the Lifeboatmen." I recommend this excellent book for anyone who wants to learn not only about Henry Blogg but also get a flavour of North Norfolk of the early 20th century. Much more about Henry Blogg in a later blog! Maybe I could call it the Henry Blog. Was looking forward to celebrating the New Year with a visit to the annual fireworks' display at Cromer, but the event was postponed due to impending bad weather.
That meant a re-scheduling to January 8th. Days seem to converge one into another and it's quite difficult to get a perspective on things. On Thursday we moved furniture into our new Cromer flat and set up beds, which gave us the opportunity to have our first overnight stay in our new abode. On Saturday we had a very pleasant walk along the seafront and a cup of coffee in North Lodge Park. The cafe there is open every day apart from Monday and is staffed by volunteers belonging to the Friends of North Lodge Park group. It's inexpensive and good food and drinks. Sunday morning was bright and mild and another walk along the front before visiting Morrisons supermarket where I was struck by the historic photographs from the Francis Frith collection that adorned some of the walls. Must look this photographer up. There's a number of interesting inscriptions carved into the promenade - comments made by literary greats about the resort. All complementary of course, part from that of Winston Churchill who said: "I'm not enjoying myself very much." On the way into town we passed and took a photograph of the legendary lifeboat coxswain Henry Blogg - described as "one of the bravest men that has ever lived." I've probably said it before but I used to live in Corner Street just off Garden Street and opposite the house where Blogg lived for many years. There's a blue plaque on the wall of the house and we noticed other blue plaques to former coxswains. I wanted to see whether former Cox Richard Davies is commemorated. Back in the 1970s I lived next door to Richard at 7, Corner Street. A close inspection of number 9 shows no sign that he lived there. There is a rather dilapidated brass sign commemorating the marriage of Prince Charles to Diana Spencer. Perhaps it's time a bluey appeared at the address. As well as celebrating the new year (admittedly a week late) the fireworks also celebrated the 100th anniversary of a lifeboat launch that saw Blogg and his crew save many lives. In 1917 his crew launched four times in 14 hours in a terrible storm. Cromer's lifeboat, Louisa Heartwell, battled 50mph winds to rescue the 22 crew onboard the Greek vessel, Pyrin. The crew, who had an average age of over 50 and two members over 70, had to rely on 14 oars and two sails to navigate the heavy seas.Just as they arrived back on shore, triumphant and exhausted, they were told of the Swedish ship Fernabo, which had been blown in two by a mine. They rowed out three times to rescue the sailors onboard. Henry, who was awarded his first Gold Medal for the rescue, was commended for his remarkable personality and admirable leadership. His crew were awarded Bronze Medals and praised for their 'courage and dogged tenacity'. * * * Last Wednesday we ate at the Gourmet Burger place where the food was decent and the sea views good and one of the things we notice about Cromer is the number of restaurants and cafes available - plenty to try over the coming months. Onto the fireworks and they certainly saw in the new year with a bang. Almost 15 minutes of top class entertainment from the pier. It seems some time since we visited North Norfolk, but we expect and hope that to change in 2017 when we will be living in Cromer for much of the year.
So this blog and site should become more active. My mind has recently drifted back to 1974 when I lived and worked in Cromer. They were by and large enjoyable times and your will find my diaries from that year and also 1975 under the "more" section on the home page. It's taken me 42 years to return to live in somewhere I have always regarded as home. I currently write and edit an e-magazine for my home village of Hethersett in South Norfolk.
Whilst working on the October 2016 edition, I was contacted by Robin Whitmore about including a feature on his community group which wardens the dunes at Horsey during the sea-pupping season and greets visitors to educate them and explain what is happening in the colony which is now the biggest winter wildlife spectacle in Norfolk which last winter recorded over 60,000 visitors. I thought it appropriate to reproduce this article on this web site: Twenty-five years ago a handful of Atlantic grey seals struggled to raise pups on the quiet beaches of Horsey and Winterton. Needing sanctuary above the tide-line where they could give birth and nourish their single pup, these wide stretches of gently sloping sands sheltered by high dunes, offered grey seals the perfect rookery site. Local villagers and winter visitors were excited to come across appealing, fluffy, white pups on their beach walks, and news about the babies gradually spread and more people came to see them. Some of them brought along their dogs. Well-meaning visitors tried to return pups to the sea, where they thought they should be. Nervous females, unable to cope with disturbance, abandoned newly born pups, leaving them to starve. Breeding success was low in those times but a few pups did survive – 4 in 1994-5 - and the seals continued to turn up, winter after winter. Right from the start local people did their best to help the seals, keeping an eye on them, and asking other people to give them space. Among them was the indefatigable John Heseltine, who is commemorated on interpretation boards on the site. John’s concern to look after those first seals catalysed the development of the wardening we see today, and the notes he made were the start of regular counting and recording of the progress of the Horsey rookery, data used in marine mammal research. That was 25 years ago. From those small beginnings, more than 1200 pups were born on these same beaches in the winter of 2015-16. Now, however, the beach at Horsey is voluntarily closed to visitors from November to January, and 150 seal wardens volunteer to help the seals by greeting and talking to visitors. The wardens explain what is happening in the rookery and guide visitors to viewing places where they get best views of this wonderful, natural, wildlife spectacle. The number of visitors has grown dramatically in recent years, encouraged by reports and pictures in the press, and posts on social media, and it is estimated that 60-70 thousand people visited the Horsey site in the three months from November 2015. For many who live close, a visit has become a regular part of their Christmas celebrations, but visitors also come from many parts of UK and from other countries. Speaking to them is rewarding for the wardens, and it’s clear that visitors are keen to understand what is going on in the unfolding dramas taking place on the beach before them. Protective mothers defend their territories from the approach of another seal, or signal to a male, hissing open-mouthed, and gesturing with agitated flippers, that mating is not yet an option. Visitors stare at the unexpected turn of speed of a huge beach master expelling an intruding male, or for the very lucky, are present at the moment of birth itself, usually quickly over and witnessed by just a few. In 2002 rangers from English Nature (now called Natural England) and the Broads Authority, encouraged by John Buxton, landowner and conservationist, formalised wardening the site. Seal Project rangers recruited and trained a small band of seal wardens, about a dozen at that time. Fifty births were recorded in their first season. The project grew; later, a voluntary beach closure was introduced and viewing platforms were constructed on the dunes overlooking the rookery. Seal births, visitors and numbers increased slowly over the following years. In 2008 the international banking crisis occurred and government grants were reduced, and in 2011, both Natural England and the Broads Authority were forced to withdraw their financial support. Facing the possibility of having to close the seal project, the suggestion was made that a community group could take over its management and Friends of Horsey Seals was inaugurated in 2012. The new organisation was severely tested in December 2013 when meteorological conditions combined in a tidal surge, causing flooding along the east coast, and sweeping hundreds of seals and pups off Horsey’s beaches. Around 180 pups were lost that night, but others were deposited on the broader beach near Winterton. Seal wardens showed their mettle and determination to help. Many of the pups were newly born and still suckling. Very few were reunited with their parent. Those most in danger of starvation were lifted off the beach by RSPCA, aided by wardens, and transported to RSPCA’s Wildlife Centre at East Winch, where staff and volunteers put in hours of work to care for them, and members of the public, responded generously to an appeal led by Archant Newspapers which helped to cover the costs. Horsey’s seals featured again in the national news last season when apparent twins were born on the dunes. Twin births in the wild are known to occur, but the survival of one or both pups would be unlikely. In this case the mother accepted both pups and they survived and prospered with her for 10 days. At that stage her milk would have been exhausted and she left them. Without help, survival at that age was doubtful and RSPCA East Winch were again asked to help. Determined to prove the relationship of the pups, David Vyse, from FoHS committee, who was at Horsey on the day of the births, collected natal blood and obtained tissue samples, arranging DNA testing by a Norwegian Marine Institute. After many weeks the result was declared and the pups were confirmed to be twins. Now in its fifth year, Friends of Horsey Seals (FoHS) is preparing for another season of seal births. Throughout the project visitors have been welcomed and looked after by seal wardens who know that talking to people about the seals and their life cycle is key to their enjoyment of the spectacle, and increases their understanding of how to act when seals are close by. Each year FoHS deals with more seal births and more visitors. A team of enthusiastic volunteers warden year after year, but every year more volunteers are needed to share the load and FoHS is recruiting now. If you have an interest in nature, enjoy talking to people, like being outdoors even when it’s cold - and you have some time to offer weekdays and weekends, get in touch with Friends of Horsey Seals and find out more. FoHS will be very happy to train you. IT is our intention ultimately to walk the entire Norfolk coastal path from Hunstanton to Great Yarmouth. Today we just had a taster of the longer walk ahead.
From home, we took the bus into Norwich and then the X44 from Norwich Bus Station, via Aylsham- a town that I have always thought to be a bit dingy - and onto Cromer and then West Runton. On previous visits to North Norfolk we had noticed a rather nice tea room on the green at West Runton and that's where we headed and we were certainly glad that we did. The Corner House is also a bed and breakfast. There are tables outside but it was a tad too dull and cool to take advantage of these today. So we ate inside. The decor is bright and welcoming, as were the owners. Newspapers were available, along with books and magazines and the food was good. I had a BLT on ciabatta and a banana milk shake. When we return I will try something a little more substantial. Felt nicely relaxed after an hour or so and we decided to start our coastal path walk with the relatively short distance between West Runton and Cromer. The two things I remember about West Runton are the pavilion and the Village Inn. It is probably forgotten in the mists of time but a number of decades ago, West Runton Pavilion hosted some of the greatest names in the history of rock music. A list of artists that appeared there reads like a who's who of rock music - Chuck Berry, T. Rex, Black Sabbath, the Sex Pistols, The Clash, AC/DC, Iron Maiden, Joy Division, Motorhead, The Jam, Dire Straits and many many more. The Pavilion was originally a sports hall which hosted dance dates during the Second World War. It was throughout the 1960s, 1970s and into the 1980s that the venue hosted pop/rock bands, many of whom were preparing material for major UK tours. The acoustics at the venue were very good. The Pavilion was demolished in 1986. Today there is a commemorative blue plaque on the wall of the Village Inn. The walk from West Runton turned out to be rather longer than we anticipated. We walked through the village and decided to follow the coastal path rather than the beach. Disappointingly the path was blocked by a rather nondescript caravan park, making it necessary to cross a field onto the main road. Then along the road until we found the path again. So we decided to get onto the beach at East Runton and walk to Cromer Pier. It has to be said that this short stretch of the Norfolk coast is probably one of the least interesting. One of my favourite ways of spending an hour is to buy a coffee at Cromer Pier Pavilion and sit at a table and just watch the world go by. I particularly like the way the cliff top winds its way up towards Overstrand. For those wanting something a little more substantial than a cup of coffee, there are two takeaway fish shops in close proximity to the Pier. Number One Fish and Chip Shop has a good reputation and has both a restaurant and takeaway section. Mary Janes in Garden Street is also good. There's nothing quite like eating fish and chips on a seaside pier. That was about it for this visit.The forecast threatened rain but it never arrived. North Norfolk is somewhere where time seems to stand still. Those wide open spaces and beautiful skies, mixed with the freshness of the air quality.
North Norfolk is somewhere that you can lose yourself, forget about time and just see where life takes you. We are currently in the main school holiday season and places like Cromer and Sheringham are awash with people. But move a few miles down the coast and things get much quieter. Today was a perfect illustration of this. We caught the bus from home into Norwich and then the X44 to Sheringham and were lucky to find the Coasthopper waiting. Plenty of people had the same idea as us because the bus was virtually full. Our destination was Morston. Getting off the bus on the main coast road, we walked down to the quay. It's a totally unspoiled and delightful area. There was plenty of car parking available on the National Trust car park, not that we needed any. Last time here we found a seafood shack and enjoyed a very nice prawn platter. The object was to repeat this but there was no sign of the mobile hut and we were hungry. There was another snack type place where the sausage rolls were very good. We asked the owner about the fish shack and she was quite curt in her reply "Oh he's moved to Blakeney," she said. I know I shouldn't do it but whenever I am close to people I listen in to conversations. This time a lady from Wales was talking about looking for a home to move to in North Norfolk. There are many similarities between the Welsh and Norfolk Coasts - both are equally beautiful! Morston is just over a mile from Blakeney and it really is a very pleasant walk along a bank overlooking a stretch of water populated with colourful small vessels that almost look as if they have been abandoned. Morston and Balkeney also have the distinction of having top notch racehorses named after them. Morston won the Derby in 1973 and Blakeney the same classic in 1969. Interestingly a horse named after my home village of Hethersett also won a British Classic - the St Leger in 1962 after famously falling in the Derby! Blakeney is a delight for visitors. As you approach from Morston it opens up into a delightful semi circular area and village green. Youngsters were fishing for crabs and there's just a delightful feel to the place. Blakeney Hotel juts out along the road and a large car park is on the left with a number of eating shacks including the Morston fish shack. There always seems to be a book sale and art exhibition on and today was no exception. I will write much more about Blakeney on this site in the future as it is a village of great interest and very picturesque. We walked up the street to the main road and caught the bus back to Cromer and then onto Norwich. |
AuthorTwo of my loves in life are writing and the Norfolk coast. This blog combines the two with entries covering visits to the sea. Archives
April 2017
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